SAF-T-POCKETS Patterns
15942 SE Brooklyn Street
Portland OR 97236-2049
503-761-6460 (phone)
503-762-1617 (fax)
sales@saf-t-pockets.com
 
 
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THE INSIDE POCKETchronicles of an independent pattern company owner |
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Home Again
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I got back today from Detroit where I was a vendor at the American Sewing Expo. I enjoyed teaching and meeting so many customers. The Independent Pattern Company Alliance had a fashion show where five of our garments were modeled.
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posted by Marsha
on October 2, 2006
at 22:31
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American Sewing Expo in Novi, MI
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I'm off to Detroit, Michigan in the morning to be a vendor and teach at the American Sewing Expo. If you live in any nearby cities, this is a great show you don't want to miss. The Independent Pattern Company Alliance (IPCA) will be having a fashion show and five of our garments will be shown. Stop by our booth and say hi.
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posted by Marsha
on September 26, 2006
at 22:01
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The Perfect Pair Has Arrived!
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 I'm happy to report our newest pattern, Perfect Pair, has arrived and is now available for sale! The pattern features a one-of-a-kind reversible skirt and a unique knit top. Click here for more details.
This past weekend I was a vendor at the NW Quilt Expo in Portland, Oregon, and introduced the new pattern there. The response was very positive, which I was pleased to see. I felt confident people would like it since many of you contacted me about the pattern after my July 2005 Sew News magazine article featured a prototype of the skirt. I wore the outfit this weekend and it is very comfortable. |
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posted by Marsha
on September 25, 2006
at 10:31
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New Pattern Discussion - Part 5
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Next comes the written instructions. I have always felt it was important to have good, clear instructions with lots of illustrations. We all learn differently. Some from the written word, some from pictures and some both. I've heard the comment, "Why bother, they never read them anyway?" My feeling is you do read them and our patterns, with many pockets, need instructions so thing get done in the right order.
As I am constructing samples, I have my laptop nearby and jot down steps as I am going along. Boy, am I getting high tech!! My retired partner, Jan, used to do the scrap art for the illustrations but my talent for drawing is lacking so I set up my digital camera and snap shots of the construction. These are then sent to our graphics person who lays out the guide sheets and creates illustrations from my photos. It's wonderful having a person who sews doing this job as they can also work as an editor to question things that don't make sense to them. I feel so lucky as the person who does this job is a fantastic sewer and brings a very talented eye to the process. Once the sheets are ready they are proofed again. It seems like the proofing is never done.
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posted by Marsha
on September 19, 2006
at 12:51
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New Pattern Discussion - Part 4
From Paper Pattern to Computer Grading
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Once we have perfected the medium size, it is ready to be digitized into the computer. At one point, I thought I should learn how to do this, but, after pricing computer software and taking into consideration the learning curve, I decided to hire a woman who does this as her business. She takes the pattern, digitizes it into the computer and prints out a size medium that we compare with the paper pattern. If fine tuning is needed, we do this and a sample is made to test it. After this is approved, she then grades the pattern from an XS to a 3XL and prints a nested (all sizes in one stack) grade. The pattern comes back to me, and I make samples of the XS and the 3XL to see both ends of the grade. If any adjustments need to be made, we do those then test the changes. I enjoy working with this woman as she is a perfectionist. My kind of gal! While I make the samples, I begin writing the instructions. More about that next time.
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posted by Marsha
on September 14, 2006
at 21:51
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Question from Comments
Reversible Clothing from Single Layer Fabrics
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Pamela asks:
Could you tell me more than "add facings to the hems... to create a casing, and then hem the turn-under allowance", please?
In the October 2006 issue of Sew News magazine, I wrote an article called "On the Flip Side" about the benefits of making reversible clothing. In the editing, it appears a few things were dropped that should have stayed in my explanations.
If you want to hem a single layer reversible garment so the color from the other side doesn't show when you turn up the hem, here is a solution. Cut a 2" wide strip of straight grain fabric the length of the area to be hemmed plus seam allowances. For example: 2" by 15" (hem circumference) + (5/8" x 2) seam allowances for a finished piece measuring 2" by 16 1/4".
Sew the strip into a circle using a 5/8" seam allowance. Pin to the leg opening with Side 1 facing the Side 2. Stitch, using a 1/4" seam allowance. Turn and press the facing to the opposite side and press under 1/4" on the cut edge. Edgestitch in place. The hems of both sides have been finished with a facing but you do not see Side 1 on Side 2 or vice versa.
I hope this helps!
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posted by Marsha
on September 12, 2006
at 22:52
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New Journey Jacket Two Pattern
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This week I have been working on samples and techniques for the new Journey Jacket Two (#9600). Some of you might be wondering why we are redoing this pattern. First of all, it is a great style that works on many figure types. When the pattern was originally designed, we were wearing our clothing much looser than we are today. We are reworking the pattern so it has the same design lines but has today's ease and fits into our size range of XS - 3XL. New details are being added such as detachable sleeves, two new outside pocket details, a wider collar, more secure lining pockets and an inverted pleat. As the company owner, I feel this is a pattern that is definitely worth the time and money to rework and I hope you will agree with my decision. The new pattern should be available for sale in late October.
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posted by Marsha
on September 7, 2006
at 07:42
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Holiday Weekend
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I want to wish you all a safe and fun filled labor day weekend before everyone heads back to school. It looks like I will be laboring as I have some deadlines looming and next weekend we will be going out of town to my nephew's wedding. The best part of being your own boss is you can set your own schedule. The worst part is I seem to schedule myself to work such long hours. Have a great holiday!
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posted by Marsha
on September 1, 2006
at 18:13
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New Pattern Discussion - Part 3
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Once I have decided on a design then the patternmaking begins. We have blocks (basic patterns in our medium size) that we use to create our designs. When we get the pattern developed in our medium size, it's time to test the pattern. We make a muslin and fit it on our dressform that has a perfect medium measurements. Often, I also try on the garment as I'm near the measurements (but far from perfect). This helps to see and feel how the sleeves hang on a body with arms and to see how the garment moves on a body. This sounds so simple but often changes need to be made or design details change, and several muslins are needed to test the pattern.
Next: What happens to the pattern next?
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posted by Marsha
on August 26, 2006
at 00:11
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My Son's Wedding
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The month of July was very busy preparing for the wedding of my eldest son, Matt, on July 29. I made the bridesmaids' dresses, the bridal veil, favors for the tables and my outfit. The whole evening, my son beamed as he looked at his bride and shared the evening with friends and family. To tie my dress into the wedding colors of lavender, I used the Shiva Paintstiks and stencils to create a leaf pattern down the lapels of my Getting to the Point Jacket (#2006). After drying, the paints were heat set. The fabric was a silk douppioni that I underlined with silk organza so it didn't wrinkle. I also made a pant and Twice as Nice tank out of the same fabric to extend the use of the jacket.
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posted by Marsha
on August 23, 2006
at 16:06
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New Pattern Discussion - Part 2
Ideas for New Patterns
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Like all women who sew, I have many more ideas racing around in my head than hours to produce them. When you are designing patterns one must consider who is the customer and what does the customer want. Each year I am a vendor at sewing shows across the country and have the opportunity to chat with my customers. It is at these events or by email that you tell me what you like, want or need. I pay very close attention and make notes of what I hear from customers. When I hear things repeatedly I begin to see that there is a need for a particular item. I then start the design process in my head and then on paper. It is necessary for me to consider how the new pattern fits into my pattern line and how it will work with or compliment my current patterns. All these things need to be considered as producing a new pattern is a time consuming and expensive project. If any of you have ideas or items that you would like to see produced I would love to hear about them. Click here to fill out our feeback form.
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posted by Marsha
on August 23, 2006
at 09:11
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New Pattern Discussion - Part 1
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This week I am finishing up our new pattern the Perfect Pair (#2008) and getting it ready for printing. People often ask what does it take to produce a pattern. My answer is: a good idea, lots of patience, money and about the same amount of time it takes to produce a baby. From concept to having a pattern in my hand to sell often takes about 9 months. Sometimes I joke that I gave birth to two children easier than some patterns. I thought some of you might be interested in the steps to producing a pattern.
In my next post, I will talk about how I decide which patterns to produce.
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posted by Marsha
on August 21, 2006
at 00:29
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